Accessories in Early Rus

But among material remains of women's clothing of 12th cent. frequently are found another type of ancient Russian collar - standing. The bottom of these collars preserve traces of fastening to garment (the so-called pristyazhnyye). (Pushkareva89)

Whatever form the collars took, they were made on stiff base of leather or birchbark, covered with the finest fabrics the owner could afford - silk, velvet or brocade, and expensively embroidered, with colored threads, with gold and silver, pearls and gems. (Kireyeva) and (Pushkareva97 and 89)

Collars were preserved in the costume of nobility over several centuries. In the 13-15 cent. embroidered collars were part of garments even of women not of the priviledged class. Such things were transmitted with love from generation to generation. Volotskaya Princess Ul'yana left to her children a precious ozherel'ye embroidered with some 3,000 pearls. (Pushkareva89)

By the Muscovite period, according to E. Tolmachoff, the wide turned-down circular collars, barmy, were worn exclusively by the highest ranks of royalty and the clergy.

The details of Suzdal collars are made from Byzantine silk fabric. They are decorated with golden fabric bands, and also with embroidery with silk and gold threads, one collar is decorated with pearl obniz'yu [edging, string] – the work of Old-Russian mistresses [female masters]. (Kolchin)

For the standing collars are characteristic the presence of a rigid foundation (birch bark, leather), an ornamental strip on the top of the collar and an opening to the left. Their height is 2.5-4 cm. The bottom edge of all the enumerated forms of collars is punctured by needle - traces of fastening to the clothing. The presence of fragments of cloth on the wrong side of the collars make it possible to determine that the clothing itself was both of threads of vegetable fiber and of silk. All forms of collars found in Suzdal, are known in the traditional Russian clothing of the 19-20th cent. and they are characteristic for shirts of different cut. Bringing is the shirts of 19-20 centuries as analogies made it possible to identify the details of standing collars from the burials in comparison with the standing collars of men’s blouses [kosovorotka], and collars in the form of squares and trapezoids in comparison with the adornments on some Russians’ wedding shirts, and also give evidence to transfer the discovered details to the adornments of shirts. (Kolchin)

The collars of men’s blouses of the 19-20th centuries, just as our collars, are standing with a height of 2.5-3 cm. They are decorated with diverse embroidery and the recent fastening of factory-made buttons are analogous with the ancient closures in the form of metallic ovoid shank buttons, and, as on the Suzdal collars, on the right side of the collar of is sewn the button, and on the left – the thread loop. In late shirts, collars in the form of square and trapezoid, just as on the ancient shirts, are decorated with embroidery and sheathed by ribbon, folded at right angle along the sides of the neck. It has a slit to the left, descending along the left side of collar. In such shirts, fastenings were of various types: on shank buttons and on ribbons. (Kolchin)

In the archaeological monuments of ancient Russia, the collars of forms described above are widespread. Standing collars are found both in the women’s and in the men’s burials, while collars in the form of squares - are more frequent in the men’s burials. (Kolchin)

Thus, in Ivanovovkoj province, the collars from the golden-fabric bands which had the square form with the slit/opening to the left were discovered in the men’s burials. Trapezoid-form collars of the golden-fabric bands were established in old Ryazan. All the same, standing collars with the opening to the left are predominant in the monuments of pre-Mongol Russia. They are found everywhere in the strata of Old-Russian cities (in old Rus, in old Ryazan, in Smolensk). They are known also in the treasure hoards. Some of the collars reach a height of 7-7.5 cm. Besides the embroidery, they are decorated with pearls and plaques. (Kolchin)

Such a wide distribution of standing collars with openings to the left demonstrates the predominance of clothing with the fastening to the left side and its existence in various levels of society. (Kolchin)

Both ozherelki and the plaques from them are known not only in the complexes of rich burials and treasure hoards, but also in the layers of Old-Russian cities, and also in rural kurgans. In 12-13 centuries they are widely extended throughout the entire territory of Russia, including the outlying lands. (Kolchin)

In the Russian folk costume of the 19-20th centuries were widely disseminated neck adornments in the form of stoyechki, which were made on a rigid foundation, decorated with pearls, beads, embroidery and rows of plaques. (Kolchin)

Remains from the necklaces are found not only in the ancient tombs, but also in the rural kurgans. In contrast to the magnificent oplechiy known these represented breast adornments of inexpensive silk cloth with embroidery and they finished the top of clothing obviously sewn from homespun fabric. Thus, in Moscow region (Domodedoj region) in the female burial of kurgan 5 near d. Novlenskoye in 1969 was discovered a fragment of silk cloth. It lay on the chest. At the collar [neck opening], the fabric was sheathed with a golden-fabric band. On the cloth was preserved embroidery of gold thread in the form of cherekh-petalled [cherekh probably supposed to be chetyre, or four] rosette. Inside the petals of the rosettes are sewn embossed plaques from gilt silver. Plaques stamped into a triangular form are inverted in the center of the rosettes. On them were three holes for the sewing to the cloth. Date of the burial – 12th cent. (Kolchin)

One additional so-called ozherlya was found near the Pushkin railroad station in the Moscow region in 1925. The ozherlya was made up of several fragments of silk. Its separate fragments are put together into a rectangular piece of cloth. It was sheathed by golden-fabric ribbons along all sides. Sewing is made gold and silk threads "into prikrep" [v prikrep]. The ornament of embroidery represented four trees inscribed into round medallions. This, more likely, chest ornament, the so-called "voshva". Analogous ozherl’ya are known also in several burials of the Moscow, Ivanovo and Vladimir provinces. They are known in both women’s and men’s burials. (Kolchin)

As the example of the cloth which decorated dress "from top to bottom", from the collar to the hem, it is possible to give one of the fragments of the 1903 Mikhajlovsk hoard in Kiev. This is a strip of cloth with a width of 14 cm. It is cut from silk of a dark-pink color. On it was stylized plant ornamentation, made by gold thread. The ornament on the fragment indicated it was laid vertically and consisted of two figures located in parallel. Ornament with vertically laid figures exists on the fragments from the Vladimir hoard of 1865. A twisted/twining vine/twig is depicted on it, and the fragment itself is folded in half on a vertical line, this last fact makes it possible to presume that the kajma decorated the edge of front-opening [raspashnoj] clothing or imitated such an edge, imitating the known ceremonial clothing. Obviously, for the bands which decorated dresses from top to bottom, it was characteristic to place the ornament along the ribbon. (Kolchin)

In recent years in the southern Russian steppes in the 10th cent. graves of Pechenego-Khazarskogo area and in the Polovetskij kurgans of the 12th cent. were discovered clothing of the short caftan type. The Byzantine kajma on the Polovets caftan is analogous to the kajma from the old-Russian Sharogoroda, which gives the right to assume that and the kajma from Sharogoroda are related to the caftan. A caftan is depicted on the 12 cent. fresco of the Kirillovskoy church of Kiev. (Kolchin)

From the Old-Russian hoards are known wider kajma. With them, as proposes M.A. Novitskaya, were decorated the hem of the long clothing, similar to the clothing depicted on the fresco of Sofia's cathedral in Kiev, where it is possible to see the group portrait of the family of Yaroslav Mudry, and also on the fresco of Sofia's cathedral in Novgorod, where Prince Yaroslav Mudry is represented. A wide kajma is known from Vladimirskoj hoard of 1865. The kajma is made from many-layered [mnogoslojnoj] silk byzantine cloth. On it – a stripe/chevron of gold thread in the form of triangles, filled out ornamentation in the form of bindweed [v'yunka] with krinami [fleur-de-lis like motif].

Rubakha sleeves were sometimes finished with a zarukavya/poruchiv/naruchami, narrow ornamented cuffs which helped hold up the extra long sleeves. These cuffs often made of rich golden fabric with couched metallic wires, pearls and gemstones, much like the ozherelya collar. The sleeves might also be fastened at the wrist with bracelets. (Pushkareva89)

See also the Bracelets on the Women's Jewelry Page.

A well-preserved opyast'e is found in the tomb of Prince Vladimir Yaroslavich, dead in 1052. The opyast'e is a rectangular piece of fabric with a length of 23 cm and a width of 4.5 cm. Two buttons are sewn on one of the short sides, on the other - thread loops. The distance between them is 20 cm. The cloth is red satin interweaving. Gold embroidery is located on it. Ornament consists of the strip of krinov [fleur-de-lis type motif], inscribed into the heart-shaped figures, between which are stitched sprouts, folded at the base with triangular expansions in their upper part. (Kolchin)

From the 12th cent. were preserved the famous poruchi in the form of trapezoids, belonging to Varlam Khutynskiy. On them were preserved figural/facial and ornamental sewing with gold and silk thread, and also pearl obniz' [edging, outline] (Kolchin)

Findings of opyastiy in the [rural] kurgans are almost unknown. M.T. Fekhner reports only about one sleeve decoration from the meeting GIM. It was preserved on the right of forearm of the burial, found in the Moscow region. It is decorated with golden-fabric ribbon. The absence of opyastiy in the kurgan burials is evidence that the expensive imported fabrics and ribbons were not sewn on opyastiya of burial clothing - they were decorated only with the collar [vorot]. (Kolchin)

Gold belts, consisting of gilded metal badges-plate/pad/straps also appeared as signs of feudal dignity, a favorite object of blessing by princes for their relatives in their wills. Women's belts, analogous to those depicted on miniature of the Izbornik of Svyatoslav 1073, are known from olden times; they were made of silk, of cloth of gold or silver threads, velvet or leather with forged/hammered metal badges. Often expensive metal finished only the tips of belts, completed with small bells, while the belt itself was decorated with gold or silver thread - spiral twisted gold or silver fine wire. For poorer women these badges ("nauzol'niki") were copper or bronze. (Pushkareva89)

The svita was worn with a wide cloth belt. (Kireyeva) and (Stamerov)

The cloak sometimes gathered at the waist with a belt that was heavily decorated, like the rest of the outer garments. (Pushkareva)

It was believed that unclean forces could not penetrate openings protected by lacy, embroidered belts. Bracelets and belts have been found by archeologists and are depicted in manuscript miniatures. (Pushkareva97)

Belts were also a symbol of modesty and chastity. (Kolchin)

In the wealthy burials of pre-Mongol Russia belts are repeatedly found. V.V. Khvojko reports about the findings in the burials of the Middle Dnepr Region (in Sharkakh, in Belgorodke) of belts of silk with Byzantine ornament. Some belts were with the gold-plated silver plaques. Finds of the silk belts, decorated with the gold-plated plaques, are also known by the excavations of L.K. Ivanovskij in the former Petersburg province, and also in the excavations of D.Ya Samokvasova in the former Kiev province - on the Royal Hill. On the belt are gold-plated silver plaques, analogous to those found on the Rajkovetskoj fortification. They are known, also, in the treasure hoards. Thus, in the old-Ryazansk hoard of 1887 was discovered the silk ribbon, covered with a row of the same plaques, edged with beads. Obviously, such ribbons, decorated with various embossed ornamented plaques, and also with enameled plaques, could decorate not only the ochel'ya and ozherl’ya, but also belts. In Prince Vladimir Yaroslavich's tomb was found a belt from the patterned silk Byzantine ribbon, whose ornament is repeated in embroidery of the opyast'ya in the same burial. (Kolchin)

Many belts could have been made with card-weaving/tablet-weaving. I'm still looking for documentation.

In the layers of Old-Russian cities frequently are encountered knitted [probably naalbinding], plaited and woven fabric belts of woolen threads. Are known leather belts with plaques. The preserved metallic plaques from the leather belts make it possible to reconstruct them. (Kolchin)

The purse was an important and useful part of the costume and was worn attached to the belt. Commoners wore a knife and a drawstring pouch at the belt to hold a comb, etc. The kalita was both decorative and functional, made of cloth, brocade, leather or plaited from fine metal wire, and often decorated with embroidery, pendants, bells and little locks - thus it was often quite valuable. (M.G. Rabinovich, "Odezhda russkikh XIII-XVII vv.," Drevniaia odezhda narodov Vostochnoi Evropy (Moscow, 1987), pp. 63-112.) (Pushkareva97) and (Stamerov)